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When you have your beautiful quilt top finished the next step is to send it to me to quilt and/or bind it for you!






Prices start at just 1¢ per square inch for computerized edge to edge quilting.

Custom quilting ...  anything other than edge-to-edge quilting is considered "custom".Custom quilting will be quoted 
individually and accepted as the schedule permits.


Turnaround time is currently about 10 weeks. If you need a project done by a certain time, please plan accordingly. If you need something ahead of the normal turnaround, and the schedule permits, there will be a $20 rush charge added.

How to estimate the cost:

Measure your quilt top - width and length.

Example: 66” wide and 86” long.

Multiply the two measurements.
66”x 86” = 5676 square inches.
Multiply the square inches by the stitch design cost.

5676 x $.01 = $56.76
for Basic Edge-to-Edge Quilting.

Minimum Quilting Charge:  $35



15¢ per linear inch

To figure out linear inches: using the measurements above, add all four sides of the quilt:

66 + 66 + 86 + 86 = 304 linear inches

Multiply linear inches by 15¢:  304 x .15 = $45.60

This includes making the binding and machine stitching it to the quilt. The amount of fabric required depends on the size of your quilt.
(2-1/4” binding)


You can finish it by hand stitching the binding on the back side.

10¢ per linear inch

This includes making the binding and machine stitching it to the front of the quilt.


Batting - 90”  Warm & Natural    45¢/linear inch (+ tax)
  for quilts up to 85” wide
  Example: If quilt is 86” long, batting would be $38.70.

If you prefer polyester, white batting or need King size, please supply the batting.


All quilts will be trimmed even with the quilt top unless you request the quilt untrimmed.

HELPFUL HINTS for finishing your quilt top and preparing it for quilting.

The three layers of your quilt will be loaded on the long arm machine independently of one another. Please do not pin or baste them together.

It’s important to have borders that help keep your quilt square – otherwise your pieced top will be more difficult to quilt and it will not lie flat – instead it will have little (or large) ripples in the edges of the quilt.

It’s a good idea to measure the length and width of the quilt before you sew, rather than just starting at one end, sewing on a strip, and cutting off the excess after.

The Easy-No-Measure-Method
Carefully lay the side border strips across the middle of your quilt, lining-up one end of the strips with the edge of the quilt. The other strip edges will hang over the side. Place a pin in the border strips where the quilt ends. Carefully trim with your ruler and rotary cutter at the pin.
Fold the border strip in half, end to end, to find the center. Pin the center of your strip to the center of the edge of your pieced quilt top, pin the ends of the strip to the ends of the quilt side. Space pins along the strip to secure the strip in place. (It is OK if your strip is slightly smaller than the pieced part of the quilt, but this is why starting at the center and the ends when pinning is important.)
Pin opposite side of quilt and sew both borders on to the pieced portion. Press the borders working from the front side of the quilt.
Repeat the process for the top and bottom edges.  Lay the two remaining border strips across the center portion of the quilt. Place a pin to mark where to trim, cut off remnant, pin and sew. Press.
Repeat this process for additional borders and your quilt will remain square.

Press seams well and clip all loose threads. Be sure the top lies flat. Ripples and puffy places will not necessarily quilt flat.

The top should be free of embellishments such as buttons, beads, and crystals.
If your quilt has a definite “head,” apply a piece of masking tape or a safety pin to identify it.

If you have sewn a quilt with a pieced border, you will want to sew a “stay-stitch” across the seams. A stay stitch is a straight stitch sewn just 1/8” from the edge of the quilt top. This stitch will keep the outer seams from coming apart.

Sides should be straight, and the backing squared. Your backing should have straight edges, with opposite edges parallel. Corners should be right angles. Please do not use bed sheets for backing.

Your quilt backing (and batting) should be a minimum of 8 inches larger than your quilt top (4 inches on all 4 sides). More may be necessary for larger quilts.

When piecing your quilt backing, please be sure to remove the salvages along your seams. (Salvages on the outside edges are fine.) Horizontal seams are preferred for the backing.

For best results choose a backing that is a similar depth of color to the quilt top, as the thread color will be matched to the quilt top. The same color thread will be used in the bobbin to prevent “freckles” of highly contrasting bobbin thread showing on the quilt top.

Patterned fabrics make more interesting backings than plain homespun and help the bobbin thread blend in.

Be aware that it is not possible to center the top over the backing in both directions. A backing with a center monogram, or with a border, is likely to be off in the final product.


Laundering New Quilts
Before laundering any handmade quilt, check the fabric for colorfastness to prevent dyes from running. Testing is simple, wet a piece of white cloth with cold water and gently rub it over each different color or fabric in your quilt. If there is any color transfer to the white cloth, don’t wash your quilt at all. Washing will result in discoloration and fading.

Hand or Machine Wash?
Hand-washing is the preferred method for cleaning quilts. Even with a new quilt, machine washing can cause stitching to ravel. If you decide to machine wash, use cold water, a gentle detergent and the shortest, delicate cycle.
If you have hard water or iron bacteria in your water source, you should use distilled water for washing your quilt. You don’t want to risk having minerals stain your fabric.
To hand-wash, fill a deep, laundry sink or bathtub with cold water. Be certain that the sink or tub is very clean and has no residue from cleaning agents that could cause damage to the quilt. Use a liquid detergent that is gentle and free of dyes and perfumes. A liquid detergent will disperse in the water and leave less residue on the fabric. Add 1/2 cup vinegar to the water to both brighten colors and soften the quilt.
Place your quilt in the water, being certain that the entire quilt gets wet. Gently move your quilt around in the water. Allow the quilt to remain in the water for about 10 minutes. Next, drain the wash water and fill the tub again with fresh water. Repeat draining and refilling the tub until the water and quilt are soap free – clear water and no suds.
Drying the Quilt
Proper drying is key to keeping your quilt at its best. Wet quilts must be handled gently. Pulling can break seams and cause damage. The quilt will be heavy and should be dried flat. To lift the quilt from the tub, use a white sheet to create a sling. Allow the excess water to drain than place the quilt on a bed of heavy towels. Cover with more towels and roll up to absorb water. Move the quilt to another bed of dry towels, spread out flat and allow to dry. Placing a fan in the room will help to speed the process.
If you have space, place a sheet on the grass outside and spread out the quilt. Cover the quilt with another clean sheet and allow to dry. Never suspend a wet quilt from a clothesline. This causes too much stress on seams and cause tearing and can displace batting.

How Often Should A Quilt be Cleaned?
For any quilt, less washing is best. For a new quilt that you use on your bed everyday, washing once per year should be sufficient unless you have animals that sleep on the bed or your quilt attracts stain makers. Antique or heirloom quilts should be cleaned less often. Between cleanings, the quilts should be aired outside or placed in the dryer on the air only – no heat - cycle to freshen.

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Longarm quilting

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